Bow & Arrow Tuning

• Draw Lenght
  This will be micro tuned later on
  
• D-Loop
  Tying a D-Loop on the string roughly the size of the nock
• Peep sight
  Set at a rough position, this will move throughout the process as everything gets finetuned
• Draw weight & holding weight
  She states that the holding weight is something that's highly underrated. She's found that a higher holding weight gives her a better aim, and therefore higher score. 
• Nock height
  She goes on to say that she's got a tendency to bob out low on the target. To fix this she ties the nock height a smidge above the center of the burger hole. If you've a tendency to bob out high on the target, do the opposite. Play around with it and find what works for you and your bow.
• Peep height
  She states that the peep height has a huge play in how well your bow aims. A tip is to sight in your bow on the average distance you're going to shoot. So if you're shooting indoor 18m, set your sight to 18m and adjust the peep height so that is feels the most comfortable and aims the best at that distance. For an outdoor 3D or Field setup you should set the peep at the middle distance. So if the distance is between 5-45m, set the peep height so the bow aims best and feels the most comfortable to shoot at 25m, and so on.
• Grip angle
  If you're somebody that likes to play around with this, this is the time do to that.
• Tiller tuning
  What tiller tuning is is adding poundage to either the top or bottom limbs.  This can also change how the bow feels and aims. This will drasticly change your nocking point and peep height, so if you do this, keep that in mind. What Paige does is adjusting the bolts in half turn increments up to 3 full turns, and she recommends doing this on both top and bottom lumbs. Note: if you want your poundage to stay roughly the same, say to add half a turn to the top limbs, take a half turn out of the bottom limbs to compensate.
• Cam timing
  Every step before this she's had her timing dead even. She'll work in half turn increments up to 1,5 full twists, maybe 2 dephending on the bow, usually starting with running the top cam ahead. This one is also important that you try both sides, i.e running the bottom cam ahead of the top. Then pick the one that aims the best.
• Micro tuning the draw lenght
  She views the draw lenghts as two parts. There's the primary draw lenght which is the bow, and the secondary draw lenght which is the d-loop lenght and release lenght. She usually starts with the primary one, adjusting the draw lenght so that the string touches her nose and the face etc the way she wants it to. You can micro tune the draw lenght using the cables aswell. Adding twists will make the draw lenght longer, and removing twists will make the draw lenght shorter. She will always start with adding 3 twists to the string (not cables) making it shorter, and then going back to 0 and taking 3 twists out. If she find that adding 3 twists to the string feels better, she will then move it back to 0 and add 1,5 twists to the string to see if that feels better than 3. Note that this will make the peep turn the wrong way around, so if you settle on this you will have to take the peep out and turn it around. If she wants to micro tune it even move she will move on to twisting the cables instead. After this she will move on to the secondary part. Having the d-loop the correct lenght is crucial to be able to have your back shoulder and elbow set correctly and still have room to execute the shot. 
• Flex guard 
  Not all bows have the ability to adjust this. She usually starts with it all the way tight and see how it aims, back it off one turn at a time up to about 8 turns. She will the walk it back down again and leave it at the point where it aims best. Note that if your bow already is tuned this will drastically throw your bow out of tune.
• Stabilizer
  She tests this using every combination possible, at the top, at the bottom, left side, right side, one up and one down, and so on. Usually starting with them level, then angling them up or down to see which feels best, then she will start micro tuning them. Adding weight, removing weight and so on.
• Nose button

Go back and forth between these steps to make sure everything's right. This order is not set in stone, this order is just a starting point and a guide line.

Source: https://fb.watch/jsuIsePX-g/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MON0vGi7mBA

1. Set the timing as close as you can by eye (you don't have put a micrometer on it; just get as close as you can)
2. Sight your bow in at twenty yards.
3. Put a piece of masking tape on your target butt horizontally. In a pinch, you can use the top edge of a target face.
4. Pull your bow into the wall as hard as you can and shoot a few arrows at the tape. 
5. Creep forward to the front of the valley, just before the bow pulls you in, and shoot another series of arrows at the tape. You may need to re-shoot these shots a couple of times to rule out bad shots.

If your bow is in perfect time, both arrows will hit the tape or they will land on the same horizontal plane. (Level with the tape or on the tape)

If the "creep" shot hits HIGH, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the BOTTOM cam.
If the "creep" shot hits LOW, TIGHTEN or SHORTEN the cable that connects to the TOP cam.

Make very small, one or two turn, adjustments a time. A little twist goes a long way. 

Source: The Creep Tune Procedure by George Ryals
https://www.archerytalk.com/threads/creep-tuning.453865/

Results of torquing a compound bow

• Torquing problem
  Two things happen when we torque the bow; we are moving the sight one way and the arrow the opposite. The reason we get an impact change due to torque is that we are making compensations with the sight when we torque the bow and therefore the arrow is going to hit off line.

• Torquing Solution
  If we can put the arrow rest in the right position, we can find the “sweet spot” where the two actions (moving the sight one way and the arrow the opposite direction) cancel each other out. In layman’s terms, this means I can set the rest and sight position to a point that no matter how I torque the bow left or right, as long as the sight is on target the arrow will hit in the middle where I am aiming.

How to torque tune a compound bow

Usually what has to happen in most setups is that the rest has to come back and the sight may have to be moved forward or back to fine tune it. The rest is the primary adjustment because it is close to the nocking point and therefore less of a movement at the rest will make more of a change downrange. Here are the steps:

As a target face, use a vertical strip of tape, string, or line. 

NOTE: Torque the bow just a little bit more than you would do accidentaly or you run the risk of derailing your string. Also make sure that when you're torqueing, you still need to put the pin in the middle and center the peep to the scope for an accurate read. 

1. Sight your bow in at 20 yards to start with.
2. Draw the bow with an arrow, torque the riser to the left (arrow getting closer to the cable), put the pin in the middle and fire the shot.
3. Draw the bow with another arrow and torque the bow the opposite direction to the right (arrow getting further away from the cable), put the pin in the middle and fire a shot.
4. If the bow is perfectly torque tuned, all the arrow will hit in a tight group. If not, you will see a lateral spread in the arrows. Typically the arrow you torqued to the left (arrow getting closer to the cable) will impact to the right and the one torqued to the right (arrow getting further away from the cable) will impact to the left.
5. Make adjustments to the rest, usually you have to bring the rest back and/or move the sight forward. You will be amazed at the difference when you start playing with the rest position.
6. Once you get the arrow impacting very close at 20 yards no matter what left or right torque you put on the riser, move back to 50 yards or further and repeat the test. You may have to make fine adjustments.

You can also move the sight in or out if that is an available option to you and that will allow some fine tuning also. It has less of an effect than the rest due to its position further away from the nocking point. Once you get this done you will be amazed at how much better your bow will shoot.

Source: https://shootingtime.com/archery/torque-tuning-compound-bow/

Before You Tune

Before we start breaking down these different tuning methods I want to stress something. While the tune of our bows definitely impacts arrow flight, it isn't the only variable to account for. The wrong arrow setup, improper bow fit, and poor shooting technique will compromise arrow flight out of a “tuned” bow. Before you get serious about tuning, you need to make sure — to the best of your ability — that your bow setup (draw length, draw weight, etc.) is sound and that you are shooting a properly spined arrow.

Right alongside the equipment end of things, make sure that your shooting abilities provide the consistency and accuracy needed to judge the capabilities of your bow. 

Paper Tuning
Paper tuning is just what it sounds like — a shooter fires an arrow through a sheet of paper that is suspended in place by some sort of frame to hold the paper with tension. That frame is placed a few feet in front of a target. Shooting through the paper sheds light on whether the arrow is in fact flying straight out of the bow. If it is, you'll see what is often referred to as a perfect “bullet hole”. If the arrow is flying with any misdirection, then the paper will show a directional “tear” instead of a bullet hole.

The amount and direction of the tear will tell you how to tune the bow to get the perfect bullet hole. The most common and user-friendly, way of addressing a tear is to make very slight adjustments to the arrow rest of the bow. Only very small adjustments are often needed, which is one of the many benefits of using a micro-adjustable arrow rest.
Note: A sight adjustment will be required after you move your rest.

There are other ways to influence the tear, including twisting/untwisting cables, stiffening/weakening arrow spine, decreasing/increasing draw weight, adding/taking away point weight, and adding/taking away tail weight to name a few. It gives a person options that can cater to their own personal goals with their setup.

If an adjustment to your rest doesn't provide the expected results and you continue to see a consistent tear pattern, then you likely have other issues to deal with — such as an arrow spined improperly for your bow setup, or a shooting form issue, such as improper grip and “torque” applied to the bow. 

Source: https://exomtngear.com/blogs/article/comparing-bow-tuning-methods

Bareshaft Tuning has been getting a lot of attention in recent years and it's for good reason. There is no better way to tell if an arrow is flying straight than to take off “the training wheels” that help make your arrows fly straight, which are the arrow's fletching or vanes. Since vanes help correct arrow flight, removing them will reveal how an arrow flies without “correction”. You bare shaft tune through paper, but I am going to go over “group tuning” with bare shafts in this article.

Group tuning with bare shafts is where one shoots both fletched shafts and bareshafts together at the same dot in order to show any variance between the two. Before trying this, you need to have your fletched shafts grouping well together. Once they are, stand at 20 yards and shoot a fletched shaft followed up with a bare shaft. In a perfect world, they'll be in the same dot hugging together. If that's the case, you're good to go. If not, here's what you do to make that happen:

Make VERY small adjustments (1/64" to 1/32") to the arrow rest...

• Bare shaft hitting left of fletched shaft: Move rest left
• Bare shaft hitting right of fletched shaft: Move rest right
• Bare Shaft hitting high: Move rest down
• Bare Shaft hitting low: Move rest up

Note: A sight adjustment will be required after you move your rest.

As with the other methods that require you change the position of your rest, you will need to adjust your bow site after making changes. As long as the bare shaft and fletched shaft are hitting together though, you've succeeded. And just like paper tuning there are other ways to influence the flight of a bare shaft other than the rest. Adjusting draw weight, cutting arrow length, adding point weight/taking away point weight, etc.

If after making these adjustments the two arrows are not coming together, you could have something else going on. For instance, if a bare shaft is hitting right and you can't get it to move closer to your fletched arrow, this indicates a weak arrow spine and the opposite is true for hits to the left. And up/down variances could mean there is a cam timing issue or even nock pinch going on.

Source: https://exomtngear.com/blogs/article/comparing-bow-tuning-methods

Walk Back Tuning and French Tuning are what I'd call the most user friendly of the tuning methods we'll go over here. Both of these are incredibly similar, which is why I lumped them together. They are both doing essentially the same thing, in the same way.

Walk Back Tuning is where a person shoots an arrow from 10-20 yards at a target with a vertically placed piece of tape running from top to bottom and moves back incrementally 10 yards at a time. The whole time aiming at the same dot with the same pin. Make sure your top pin is sighted-in perfectly to this dot. The logic here is to show left/right variance gradually as the arrow falls and one moves back. The goal is getting no variance at all in the end.

Remember, you are using the same aim point and the same sight pin the entire time. As you move back in distance, your arrows will hit lower. We are concerned with the horizontal direction (left or right) those arrows are moving, not with height.

These adjustments are all done with the arrow rest:

• Arrows gradually moving left ( / ): Move rest slightly to right
• Arrows gradually moving right ( \ ): Move rest slightly to the left

Note: A sight adjustment will be required after you move your rest.

French Tuning is a more condensed and efficient way of Walk Back Tuning. You'll start with a target placed at 3 yards and aim at the bullseye with your 50 yard pin. This should put you dang near center of the dot. Your arrow needs to be hitting absolutely dead center before the next step. If that means moving your sight a smidge, then do it. Be picky here. Once it's good, it's time to move on.

From there, move the target out to 50 yards and take another shot. If there is a left/right variance move your rest slightly in the opposite direction of the variance, just like you would with walk back tuning. After doing so, you'll have a minor sight adjustment to get back in the center at 3 yards. Do this until you're in the center at both 3 yards and 50 yards.

Source: https://exomtngear.com/blogs/article/comparing-bow-tuning-methods